Robust Red Wine

Premiere Reds

For all of you red wine lovers out there, lots of good stuff about reds is here.

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Nothing against white wines but I plan to be buried with a bottle of red wine. In fact, someone told me I should have a second hearse with cases of wine following me to the cemetery. That’s just in case (pun intended) there is no wine in heaven. And that would be hell.

My list below consists of both major grapes (varietals like cabernet) and regions (like Bordeaux). Thus, it’s a more comprehensive list of the common red wines. You will need a glass to sample all of the wines below, so check out Wine Enthusiast for all of your red wine glasses! I'll wait.

Now that you have your glass, let's go...

Barbera

This is the second most planted grape in Italy behind Sangiovese. It has gotten a bad rap because many feel it is not up to the standards of most of the Sangioveses and Chiantis from the area.

That is unfortunate. I personally like it quite a bit. If you like tart and slightly sweet red wines, this one is for you.

Beaujolais

This wine is probably the most well known of the lighter and fruity red wines. Like Barbera, some red wine aficionados don’t like Beaujolais. Too much like soda pop or juice, they say. But millions do. Every November. That is when the current release of Beaujolais Nouveau takes place at many parties, tastings, dinners, and ceremonies.

It’s not the greatest wine, but it’s an excuse for a party. No problem with that. Made from the Gamay grape, it is not meant to be aged. So another reason to drink it right away. So if you do like light and fruity, this wine is for you. For best results: serve slightly chilled.

Bordeaux

If Beaujolais sits near the bottom of the wine totem pole, then Bordeaux sits near the top. Some of the world’s most renowned and aged red wines come from this region alongside both sides of Gironde river in France. These are some of the wines that sell for thousands of dollars a bottle. Someday, if I win the lottery, I may try one of those bottles.

Don’t worry, there are plenty of affordable Bordeaux wines. Several years ago, I attended a Bordeaux fete in Chicago. Fourteen different bordeauxs were served with vintages going back to 1985. I was in heaven.

Anyway, while there are a number of different grapes that are grown to produce Bordeaux, the primary ones are cabernet from the west bank and merlot from the east bank of the river. The gravelly soil from the west bank gives the cabernet grape its blackcurrant taste, tannin, and body. The limestone and clay soil from the east bank gives the merlot grape its softness as compared to cabernet.

Other grapes in the region such as cabernet franc and malbec blended in can vary the color, body, and tannins. This makes it a creative winemaker’s dream. By the way, some excellent white wines such as sauvignon blanc and Semillon are produced here.

So for that special occasion or for no reason at all, splurge a little and enjoy.

Cabernet Franc

This grape grows mainly in the Loire valley in France. However, there are some very good Napa Valley “cab francs”. Grown mainly for blending with cabernets and merlots, it can be a good stand-alone red wine. You will often find it blended with Bordeaux or Meritage.

Similar in taste to cabernet sauvignon, it is lighter and brighter. Sometimes it will have a bit of fruit in its flavor. Here is a trivia question for you to share at the next wine tasting: The cabernet franc grape is a genetic parent of cabernet sauvignon. Guess who is the other parent… Yep, sauvignon blanc.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Affectionately known as cab, this is the godfather of red wines. This grape is grown from America to Antarctica. OK. Not Antarctica but you get the idea. First cultivated in France, it spread across Europe and made its way to the United States. Now some Napa Valley cabs are as prominent as those in France. Also, the above mentioned Bordeaux superstars are mainly cabernet.

Small like a pea, thick skinned, and hardy, the grapes lend themselves to wines with great taste, body, aromas, and structure. It’s versatility and ability to be blended with other varietals like syrah/shiraz, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and sangiovese is another strong plus. This allows the winemaker a great deal of latitude and creativity in all aspects of production from growing the grape all the way to storage of the finished product.

Because the grape is small and thick skinned, the tannins can be quite strong especially if the juice is soaked in the skins for a lengthy period of time. This isn’t necessarily bad. Sometimes I like that pucker that you get from the tannins. But smoothness is better. And that comes from…

Aging. This greatly smoothes out the taste since the dominance of the tannins diminishes over time. Then the other more subtle flavors begin to stand out. Aging in oak barrels add the wood flavors from the oak. Add additional aging in the bottles and you have the makings of a great red wine. Most cabs will take at least 5 - 10 years to age properly. You can drink them sooner, but they won’t be quite the same.

So in wine parlance, “Grab a cab” and see for yourself.

Chianti

Among the most famous Italian wines and named after a region in the Tuscany area of Italy, it is made mainly from the sangiovese grape (see below). In fact, you can say that chianti to sangiovese is like Bordeaux to cabernet sauvignon. To be named a chianti, it has to be at least 80% sangiovese. Generally, it is a medium bodied wine with some sweetness and a little spice. It goes quite well with - you guessed it - Italian food.

While it is also bottled normally like other wines, note to the right the wide bottomed bottles in the straw casing. This casing is called a fiasco by the way. Another trivia tidbit for the tasting party. So put on Dean Martin’s “That’s Amore” and indulge.

By the way, you simply have to see Tuscany - land of rolling hills, quaint towns, sidewalk cafes (that serve chianti), and scenic villas. It is beautiful, peaceful, romantic and of course overflowing with great red wine. Put it on your bucket list.

Grenache

You probably thought cabernet sauvignon or chardonnay were the most widely grown grapes in the world. I once did. But they are not. It’s Grenache.

A hearty and late-ripening grape, it grows best in warmer climates like Spain and southern France. Such warmer climate wines are usually regarded as lesser quality so Grenache doesn‘t have the reputation of some other wines.

Grenache, too, blends well with others like syrah, Cotes du Rhône, rioja, and mourvedre. On its own, it is a spicy and fruity wine that tends to age rapidly. So drink it fast.

Malbec

This is a grape that falls somewhere between cabernet and merlot. Originally grown in France, it is now a dominant red wine in Argentina. A robust deep red or violet plum-like tasting wine, it too is good for blending and many great wines have malbec in it such as Bordeaux claret. Definitely being one of my favorites, I always look for an opportunity to drink it. Like right now.

Meritage

Not a varietal, meritage is more of a designation. Known as a “propriety wine”, meritage (rhymes with heritage - not with mirage) is a blended red wine which does not meet the 75% single varietal law. That is, you cannot call a wine a cabernet sauvignon unless it contains at least 75% cabernet sauvignon.

Some California winemakers felt restricted by this so they created the “Meritage Association” in 1988 with a trademark on the name. Winemakers thus have to be licensed to call it meritage. So it looks like they traded in some old restrictions for some new ones.

Anyway, this wine is similar to Bordeaux but without the above referenced restrictions and the necessity of a simple name of “red table wine”. Two of the Bordeaux grapes must be in the wine but there is a lot of flexibility as to the proportions.

Personally, I think that was a good idea. It preserves the “sanctity” of the other varietals while allowing for experimentation in creating some new wines. Being blended with cabernet, merlot, cabernet franc, and malbec, Meritage is definitely worth a try.

This wine is a paradox. It is both extremely popular and yet maligned and underestimated. Sounds like Beaujolais.

Merlot

The popular movie Sideways featured its protagonist Miles shouting that he hated merlot. Merlot sales plummeted. Why anyone should boycott something because some movie character doesn’t like it is beyond me. Not only that, the wine industry pushed it too much commercially like white zinfandel in the 1980’s. It became a generic non-wine lovers' red wine regardless of the quality.

Generally, merlot is softer and less substantive than some of the heavyweights like cabernet. This can appeal to the general public but turn off some wine aficionados (like Miles). I have experienced this myself when I ordered a glass of merlot and found it very unexciting (there may have been other reasons for that). So then I falsely assumed that all of it’s like that but that’s not true. Since then, I’ve had some very good merlots. In fact, at some blind tastings, I was shocked to find that I had just tasted merlot. And so was everyone else there.

So what is merlot really all about? It is the third most planted grape in France and the most planted in the Bordeaux region. Thus, it is a primary wine blended into Bordeaux. The grape is thin-skinned and ripens sooner. In fact, harvest timing is critical during this ripening process. Early harvesting allows it to age better. Late harvesting enhances the fruity taste. It is a winemaker’s judgment call.

It also thrives in cooler climates. Some wineries will grow both merlot and cabernet at the same time to take advantage of varying climatic conditions. The wine ages sooner than cabernet and thus hits it prime earlier.

There are three main styles of Merlot. One is soft, fruity, smooth with light tannins. The second is a middle of the road fruity wine with more tannins. The third is a highly tannic wine similar to Cabernet. That was the one I blind tasted. Surprise!

So try it.You may be surprised as well. By the way, near the end of Sideways, our protagonist drinks a wine blended with merlot.

Mourvedre

This grape is mainly grown in Spain, Portugal, and France. With an earthy taste, this red wine is heavy with the tannins and alcohol. You have to like a robust wine without a lot of flavors to enjoy mourvedre. It best used in blending with lighter wines that can use a robust kick.

Nebbiolo

This is a grape grown predominantly in the Piedmont region in Tuscany, Italy. In fact, it is grown almost exclusively there. This is because it is very sensitive to soil and geography and it is jealously guarded by the locals.

Nebbiolo is another robust heavily tannic and acidic red wine. It ages slowly. So slowly that some nebbiolos can take six to ten years to mature. Young nebbiolos are dark and tart. Older ones will actually have tinges of orange in its color. Some very old ones actually are orange.

This one too can be blended with lighter wines both to soften the nebbiolo or to embolden the lighter wine.

Petite Sirah (Syrah)

Also known as the Durif grape, it is produced primarily in California and Australia. If you like a dark purple, tannic, peppery, plummy wine, then petite syrah is for you. While good on its own, it blends best with zinfandel. Also, this is another red wine that ages well and long.

FAQ:

Is it petite syrah or petite sirah? Petite sirah is technically correct.
Is it related to syrah? Yes. It is the result of a cross pollination between syrah and the peloursin flower.
Why is it called petite? The grapes are very small.
Why is the grape called Durif? Named after the French botanist who discovered the vine.
Should you open a bottle and drink some? YES.

Pinot Noir

It didn’t used to be this way but this wine has become another granddaddy of red wines. This is partly compliments of Sideways. While the main character Miles was dissing Merlot, he was singing the praises of pinot noir. But even before the movie, I was drinking pinot noir. Why? Because it’s soooooo good.

A master sommelier named Madeline Triffon called pinot "sex in a glass”. How’s that for a description? Wine guru Robert Parker has said: “When it's great, Pinot noir produces the most complex, hedonistic, and remarkably thrilling red wine in the world.”

It is a wine that can have an enormous range of flavors, aromas, and textures. Generally light to medium bodied, it can taste anywhere from smoky to fruity to spicy to floral. This is part of its appeal. There is something for everyone. It is even used to make champagne.

Chiefly associated from the Burgundy region in France and growing mainly in cooler climates, pinot noir has become a worldwide grape.

It also has become famous for its difficulty to grow and produce. The thin skinned grapes are subject to all kinds of vagaries from frost to pests to drying out too quickly. The genetics of the grape can change from one season to the next thus yielding something totally different. Or how about explosive fermentation that can make it “boil” out of its container?

But these things don’t stop enterprising winemakers from the challenge of making it. Get it right and you have a wonderful palate caressing red wine. And you thought winemaking was just stomping on some grapes in the bathtub and putting the juice into a barrel.

Considering all that is involved with pinot noir, you can appreciate it even more. So, start appreciating.

Sangiovese

The number one varietal in Italy, this is the main Tuscany grape that makes chianti. It thrives best in low elevation and warm climates. The wine tends to be fruity with a touch of bitterness and the aroma tends to be weak but with fruity and floral overtones. Some winemakers will try to compensate with blending but some Italian laws have made this difficult. Perhaps this is because Sangiovese can be easily overwhelmed by powerhouses like cabernet. See “chianti” above. Then, bake some margherita pizza and then break open a bottle.

Shiraz / Syrah

I discuss these two wines together because they are essentially the same. In Australia, they call it shiraz. Elsewhere, they call it syrah. Here in my home, I call it good.

Obscurely originating in France, it has become one the leading varietals in the world. There are myths that it originated in Shiraz, Iran (Persia in the old days) or in Australia itself but there is no substantiation. But, however it got there, it has become a dominant grape in Australia.

A very loose rule of thumb is that syrahs are very dark violet with a rich, tannic, spicy, and very light fruity taste. Shirazes are a little lighter, sweeter, and peppery. But does it matter? Both are good and offer a little something for everyone. So pour yourself a glass of syrah (I mean shiraz). Or both.

Tempranillo

This is one of Spain’s big reds. It grows mainly in the Rioja region in the northern part of that country. Newer versions are grown in Argentina, Chile, and California. A ruby colored wine, it tastes like berries, tobacco, and vanilla. Rarely bottled by itself, it is usually blended with a grenache or cabernet.

Zinfandel

One of my personal favorites, it has the misfortune of being confused with white zinfandel. One time, I asked a waiter what red wines he had and then asked for a glass of zinfandel. He replied that it was not a red wine but more like a rosé. When I tried to explain what zinfandel was, he said he didn’t have any. I’m still not sure he got it. So I had a pinot noir instead. Good alternative but that’s how it goes sometimes.

Mainly grown in California, this is another wine that has a wide range of tastes and aromas. It also has a wider range of alcohol content than most other wines. Thus, the lighter alcoholic zinfandels (approx 13%) will be more “jammy” with lots of berry flavors (similar to Beaujolais). The heavier ones (16% - 18%) will also be fruity but with more peppery with taste of cloves and raisins (more like cabernet). The flavors are heavy and concentrated. Thus, it will overwhelm most foods. It’s best with steaks and barbecues.

The true origins of the grape are unknown but they have been growing here for over 170 years. Many of the vines are hearty, adaptable to various climates, and productive. They can live 75 to 100 years. These older vines produce great wines because they produce smaller and evenly ripening crops. This concentrates the flavors in the harvest.

There is an organization called Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) . They provide a ton of information and resources - not to mention big time tasting events. I went to one - it was zin heaven. You even get to keep the glass.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I have to go zinning.

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Basic Stuff

Unlike white wines, red wines are produced from the skins of the grapes as well as the juices. By soaking in the juice, it is the skins that give the wine its color. In addition, the flavors and tannins from the skins get absorbed into the juice.

In very simplest terms, the juice is fermented and stored in barrels usually made of oak. The where, how, and time the wine is stored makes all the difference in the world.

Red wine is meant to be served slightly cool but not chilled. If it is too chilled, so will be the flavors. If it is too warm, it will be flat. Room temperature is usually too warm. Perhaps this is because winemaking dates way back long before homes were heated as they are now. Step into any good wine cellar and you’ll probably need a sweater. But, don’t worry, the wine will warm you up.

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