Meet The Sommelier
Ordering Restaurant Wine
Like A Pro

You are now seated at a nice restaurant and ready for some serious wining and dining. The sommelier approaches. You know, that gentleman (or woman) with the vest, bow tie, and the little tasting cup dangling from his neck. In his hand is this large, black leather bound book. “Good evening. May I interest you in some wine tonight?”

Your heart starts pumping fast and the adrenaline starts to flow as he hands you the black book opened to the first page. You see this huge list of whites and reds. Of chardonnays and cabernets and zinfandels and pinot noirs. Of champagnes and dessert wines. You see some triple and even quadruple digit prices. You see Napa and France and Italy and Australia.

At this point, you do not see any more because you are passed out on the floor.

Welcome to the wonderful world of restaurant wine. OK. I was being dramatic. It’s not really that bad nor does it have to be. All you need to know is what you like. And the sommelier is there to help. Don’t be intimidated.

First, let’s look at how wine is sold in restaurants. Generally, there are three types of restaurant wine:

• House wine. They will be generic by varietal. That is, if you order a “glass of cabernet”, they will grab the nearest open bottle and serve it. House wine will be a little cheaper but also lesser quality.

  Two reasons for the lesser quality. First, they will serve the lesser quality wines that are out there. Second, it’s a matter of how long the bottle has been open. Beware of that because some of the open bottles that don’t move may have been sitting there for several days or even a week. Bye bye great flavors and hello flat and listless.

  At the very least, have them pour a small tasting portion for you to try. In fact, a good restaurant or bartender will volunteer to do this. But in general, avoid house wine and drink…

• Premium wines. Being a better quality, these are the ones you see on the wine list. I always ask for this list so I can pick and choose. Since you are here on this site to learn more about wine, you will eventually start to recognize some of the wines on the list. That is really a very good feeling. You will start handpicking what you want rather than depending on someone else to choose it for you. Then you will no longer be ordering a “glass of …”
• Special or reserve wine. These are the very high end wines. Unless you are a high roller, don’t worry about these.

OK. Now, let’s take a closer look at handling that restaurant wine list.

• Usually, they are organized by type. That is, there will be separate sections for sparkling wines, whites, reds, and dessert wines. They may be subdivided by varietal and/or country or wine region. Sometimes, they may be listed in order by the lightest to the heaviest. Or, by how they taste (e.g. crisp and sweet to oaky, etc.).
• You should have an idea of what you and the rest of your table want for the evening. Then use the process of elimination. If you want red wine, that cuts the list in half. If you want pinot noir, that eliminates all the other reds, and so on.
• Also, you can base your decision on what you plan to eat that evening. While there are no pairings or non-pairings that are mandatory, keep in mind that lighter red wines like pinot noir and most whites will go with fish, chicken, and lighter dishes. If you are ordering red meat or heavy sauces, then you will need a heavier red wine like cabernet or zinfandel. Ask your server or sommelier for suggestions.
• Another way they may order the wine list is by price. Certainly have a price point in mind but don’t automatically skip over the top entries to avoid looking too cheap. A lower priced wine may be quite good.
• Is the price by the glass (if available) proportionate to the bottle price? If the bottle price is less than four times the glass price (and it usually is), it is better to order by the bottle.

The list will usually contain the following:

• The wine name. Should contain the varietal name (e.g. zinfandel) or place name (e.g. Napa Valley), or producer (e.g. Silver Oak).
• Item or bin number. Not all lists have this but it is useful for both you and the sommelier. If you have trouble pronouncing the name, you can just order “the number 151 shiraz”. It’s useful for the sommelier since he will go right to that bin and get the bottle.
• Vintage. This is mandatory except for blended wines from different years. If you see “VV”, you’ll have to ask which vintage since the restaurant was too lazy or cheap to update the list. Personally, I have never seen VV and that is good.
• Description. Smaller lists will have this and give you an idea of what it will taste like.
• Price. We’ve already talked about that.

Whenever in doubt, ask. You’re paying for the wine and for the service so make sure that you get what you want. Several options:

• You can select several choices and ask your server for a recommendation. This will also have the effect of subtly letting your server know that this is the price range you had in mind. This will also test the server’s knowledge.
• Inform the server what kind of wine you want. For example, sweet, fruity, tart, dry, oaky, etc. But, one caveat. You should beware what you wish for. You may end up with the oakiest wine in the cellar.
• Finally, never let them push you into a selection that you are not comfortable with. Nor let them rush you - especially if you have to digest a large list.

Now, the moment of truth. He she comes with a beautiful bottle with the fancy label. Your mouth begins to water in anticipation. But you are still a little nervous about what to do next. Here we go:

• Inspect the label. As Ronald Reagan was fond of saying: “Trust but verify.” Make sure it is exactly what you ordered including the vintage.
• Feel the bottle. Just hold the bottle while you are inspecting the label. Is it too warm or too cold?
• Check out the cork when she hands it to you. If the cork is very wet and shriveled or very dry, there may be problem. Air may have leaked into the bottle. Ditto if the cork smells bad. Taste the wine anyway to be sure but corked bottles are usually spoiled.
• Next, she will pour a small sample into the glass. Swirl the wine in the glass, put your nose into the glass, and smell the aroma. It should be normal - not vinegary, musty, or dank. Another caveat, though. Some earthy wines like some from South Africa will have a petroleum or “barnyard” smell. That’s just how they are and they will taste nothing like the smell.
• Now go ahead and take a sip. Again, it should be normal. It may help to swirl again and take a second sip. You’d be amazed at the difference that can make. If there is a real problem, have someone else at your table try it and solicit their opinion. Or have the sommelier herself try it. If you have your food already, try it with the food. Some wines are better with food than by themselves.
• If, and only if, the wine is bad should you send it back. And be ready to explain why. And if you do, now is the time to do it. Be firm, but polite. She will probably offer to bring out another of the same bottle. Chances are very good that the next one will be fine. And don’t worry about the open bottle going back. Unless it is much older, the restaurant will probably send it back to the supplier.
• If the wine is good, say that it’s OK. She’ll then pour the others’ glasses and then top off your own.

That’s it! Bon appetit!

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